“Talk to the Hand Because Surf is Up
and the Brain’s Not Listening”
Funny, Relatable Lessons for All
This is a fun read or LISTEN for a few laughs and relatable lessons. However, read or listen through to the end to discover the golden takeaway from my true stories. One tale however did not bode well.
Whether you surf or not, this article is about you and that incredible rush, the thrill, the dopamine hit of that high-octane Superman or Superwoman feeling we all crave and need!
And then, seconds, just before dropping down that epic wave or as your ski tips or snowboard are on the edge of that massive crevasse of the fresh mountain of powder, you hesitate for that nanosecond and then say to yourself, “$#@? …I’m going!”
The following true accounts and experiences are similar and don’t always happen right before that magical drop. Sometimes, those “pre-adrenaline adventure” instinctual moments are the most important, and we often flick them away like an annoying gnat.
However, you can be sure those moments we ignore often lead to valuable lessons. Enjoy and learn, and I’m sure one or a few of these will have you nodding, “Yup, I’ve been there.”
Raise your hand if this has ever been you. You’re in the parking lot at your favorite surf break. Massive vials of adrenaline are pulsing through your body. You can hear the surf but can’t see it because the sun’s barely up, and you’re in a mad rush to beat the crowds.
When the brain says GO, and the body says NO.
But there’s a nagging feeling, some weird sensation, or a little voice telling you, “Not today.” Or perhaps when the brain says go, and the body says NO, it might be a sign.
Now, we can also flip this and say, “When the body says GO and the brain says “NO,” it’s rare because the brain, or the voice of reason, is typically a louder voice speaking in our head. It’s also very rare that we listen to our brain because the endorphins are already clouding our best judgment, and literally, there’s a gush of dopamine flooding your prefrontal cortex, inhibiting our better judgment.
It’s true! It’s like you’re telling your brain: “Talk to the hand because surf is up and the brain’s not listening.”
Sometimes, it can be a cascade of little things tapping you on the shoulder when you’re gently nudged by something as if it’s a warning sign.
First, you accidentally snag and shut the leash in the car door while running to the water. Then, “Oh snap,” the leash literally snaps in two, practically pulling out the plug. “Crap, what the #%$@.” (You choose your favorite swear word and fill this in) Here’s that little voice again. “Suzie, today is not your day.”
“Talk to the hand surf is up I’ve got waves to catch.”
Luckily, we all have a junk backup leash. However, it’s not thick enough for a heavy day like today. So now, in the back of your mind, you’re worried about your life out there and losing your board. But no, that’s not enough to stop you. Can you relate to this, too?
Here’s another sign of divine adrenaline intervention. So instead of putting sunscreen on your face, you suddenly realize and say, “Wait, what, what is that smell?” It’s kind of extra flowery or like… #$@% !!” “UGH, I just put hair conditioner on my face.” “Really Suzie!?” Sputtering in like a “how ridiculous” tone to yourself.
Your brain is completely scrambled eggs. Next, “Oh, man, did I lock the truck after I put it in the lock-box?” I’m not going back now. Forget it. I’ll just have to pray no one watched me. I must get out there NOW.
You hit the water, and after a few strokes, “rumble, grumble.” Your stomach loudly churns, (technically called a borborygmus ), and you have that burning, empty tank feeling and a slight headache, reminding you that you didn’t feed it and have no energy to catch big waves, let alone paddle out that far. You think to yourself, “Triple crap, I’m still going!”
By now, you should be questioning this session. Your mind is spinning as you see the first massive set roll in. Your mind flashes a raspy but vivid visual of someone driving off with your truck and your energy bars with nice conditioner in their hair. Great!
Okay, so all the signs could be fate, bad luck, or maybe even bad karma;-or, let’s just admit it, you are not thinking clearly or, more importantly, listening to your….intuition.
Intuition
We are all guilty, and I wholeheartedly regret my decision on the morning of February 11th this year, one early pre-dawn morning at Kanaha. It was a crisp 59 degrees. I even drove with the seat heater on, which is the freezing mark for us, and I’m wearing a 2m wetsuit.
I was so excited to surf with my friends, but I could feel something gnawing at me, telling me not to go. My neck hurt, and I was already shivering, and I knew the surf heights would rise fast. Usually, when it comes to sports and risk, I listen to my intuition.
On that morning when the keepers of the Ocean said, “Little Suzie, today is not your day. Look at you; you’re freezing, your teeth are chattering, you are as stiff as a board, your neck hurts, and it’s not going to be good.”
The first set was lining up nicely; only three of us were out. The sun was just starting to come up. Richard, Milton, I and a few more were setting up in the channel. I was so cold that I could not turn my neck to see what was coming. And boy, did that first wave come. While it wasn’t that big, it was heavy, as Kanaha can be.
I wasn’t afraid; I was just in a bad spot, in the wrong place at the wrong time, and it was the first legit wave of the day. I decided I’d just fall and ride it out. And then everything changed. My plan did not go according to plan, and in slow motion, I fell in the worst way.
My right arm and paddle extended horizontally to the wave as it pushed my shoulder into my neck. Then, I felt the burning pain in my shoulder, and all my strength was immediately gone.
Survival Instincts
Now I’m thinking, how in the world do I get back to shore with more waves coming as the waves start to build? This could get even more dire.
Luckily or unlucky, I’d been in similar challenging situations in the open ocean and had to resort to quick thinking. My goal was to get to the channel if there was one left. On huge days, the channel disappears, and it’s smash city one after the other.
The only thing on my side that morning was the channel. My mission was to get there as fast as possible, rest, and assess. I choked down on the paddle and used my opposite leg as a rudder, and, with the smallest of strokes, slowly gimped in. It took forever. The pain wasn’t that bad yet because I was pumped on serious adrenaline.
I finally made it back to shore, and to my surprise, a surge of strength like electricity came through my injured right arm, allowing me to carry my board all the way to my truck. I was in a bit of shock, but all cylinders were firing.
I was furious with myself for not listening to my gut and intuition. When I don’t, I know I really pay the price. And I most certainly did that day. My friend Brian helped me put my board in my car. I got in my truck, mad as hell, and drove home in my wet wetsuit because I could barely get it off.
Fast-forward: The rotator cuff tears required only one anchor. I told the surgeon I knew, “Just go through the old holes from my first surgery.” He didn’t think that was funny. It’s been three-plus months and being off the water for six months has been a harsh sentence for not listening to my gut.
The takeaway: So the next time surf is up, Listen to your gut because the brain alone won’t stop you. The body and your intuition know, just don’t go.
A valuable lesson to us all is listening to your gut or all-knowing intuition. In neuroscience, extensive research suggests that your gut and heart know before your brain. You don’t have to know the how’s or whys. We mustn’t question it; we must trust it.
This is my third shoulder surgery, and rehab is coming along nicely. It’s been a strange blessing for other reasons, but I’m looking forward to feeling the water, having my board under my feet, and connecting with good friends and my old friend, Mother Ocean.
I’d love to hear your pre-surf or other peradventure fumble gut/intuition stories that clouded your brain’s executive command center, the prefrontal cortex. Leave them in the comments! Please share with someone you know who gets it.
Maybe next time, slow down a moment and listen to your intuition. Nahhhhhh. I’m going!
See you on the water very soon.
Warm Aloha,
Suzie Cooney
