Personally, I’ve felt the heaviness of depression dealing with multiple injuries, chronic illness and multiple surgery recoveries, in addition to the normal part of life’s heart wrenching personal hardships and losses. There have been many times throughout my life where everything stopped, the grieving never ended, and I lost the motivation
As one of the mentor and coaches of Bobo Gallagher, I’m beyond grateful to have been a part of this epic event in his young life; to witness this amazing talent who just can’t help to smile at the world because he is on the water.
“If you want to be as strong as the ocean demands.. it starts in the mind and on land first.” ..”.We talked about the importance of being an ocean and reef, and Maui ambassador and the important responsibility that goes with it, along with the many different ways one can lead by example. As a rule I always spend 15 minutes before or after I play or work on the ocean, picking up trash and plastic. I stressed it is simply a way of life now that we must all do our part.”
This year that mentality switched for me & my goal was to drop 2 waves! In my first heat this perfect set wave came to me & something just clicked inside me & I just turned & went with out hesitation.
